In darkened tunnels once stuffed with weapons, there are now hundreds of blue barrels filled with anchovies resting in litres of brine, a surreal repurposing of Albania's Cold War past. Murals, statues, architectural oddities and historical relics greet visitors to Fish City, a complex snuggled into gentle hills in Labinot-Fushe, 60 kilometres (40 miles) south of the capital Tirana and home to a seafood processing plant employing some 1,500 people.

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